About The Cars

Think about fuel pump your car. We know the fuel pump is inside the gas tank. Is this pretty difficult to get at? Dropping the fuel tank seems easy enough once I siphon out the gas, but don't you have to take out the fuel lines into the tank first? How many lines do I have to take off? I just glanced at them today and they look really hard to get at. Is it just a fitting that needs to be unscrewed on each line? Also, once I unhook the fuel lines and drop the tank, how do I get at the fuel pump inside the tank?

I'll be the first to admit that I am definitely a beginner at mechanics. Would this be something I could handle? I am sick of paying hundreds of dollars in labor to get my vehicles worked on at repair shops. How do you replace a fuel pump on a 1992 Chevrolet K1500 4.3?

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It's do-able, I replaced mine in 1991 C-2500. You will need the fuel line tool to get the fuel lines removed.

There is a ground wire attached to the frame above the axle that's a pain in the *** to remove. It's got a little bolt that's usually rusted, and won't turn. I just cut mine and put a crimped splice on it.

Removing the sending unit/fuel pump INNER lock ring on the tank is tricky because they seal it with some kind of tar like stuff. You may want to invest $20 on a Haynes manual. It's the best money you could spend on your truck. Replace your fuel filter too. (below the drivers seat) inside the frame rail. Expect to spend half a day on this job.

By the way we were told that a rod bearing is bad in our engine and it will cost around $3,000 to repair. The oil has been changed every 3000 miles and the vehicle only has 87,000 miles on it. What is the best way to pull the engine for possible replacement or repair? The mechanic said we must have gotten a lemon because he's heard very little in the way of problems. Other problems we've had repaired consist of wheel bearing replacement 4 times, defective sliding door, coolant leak, air conditioning stopped working a week after warranty was up and air bag system malfunction.

I had an extended warranty from GM on the motor only. We noticed a noise from the lifters and took it in for repair. It was supposedly repaired but one week after the repair, the rod bearing is damaged. Can anyone advise on how to proceed with this van?...short of a bonfire?

Answer:
Hi! By the way doesn't your extended warranty cover this? 3K sounds high for a bearing replacement unless they are doing more than just that...I would check around for different shops to quote the job and see if it can be done without pulling the motor. You may have other problems with the motor once they get into the repair so it may not even be worth it to do.

Maybe check around at dealers to see what they would give you for trade-in value in it's present condition. Some dealers like to do that because they can fix it at cost and make a profit on it if the van's in good shape otherwise. Weigh the trade-in value as is versus what it would be worth if you spent the money to fix it.

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First you'll need a 3/8 drive 5/8 deep-well magnetic socket from Auto Zone and a couple of 3/8 short extensions. Plan on replacing the spark plug wires if they've never been done also. Pick up AC-Delco wires and plugs from your local Chevrolet dealer. Twist the spark plug boots clockwise and counter clockwise before attempting to

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Go to http://www.carfiche.com/. They have many car manuals there.

They're on a shifting

Next this is something you can do yourself if you have the knowledge, book, and if needed for your system, the code reader. For a 92 model you should be able  to get the code by

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By the way if by converter, you are talking about the torque converter, DO NOT put any holes in it. the best you can do is remove it from the tranny and have it flushed out by a reputable transmission shoop. but in all honesty, you really should replace it. there is no way of

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The CV Axles are easy to do at the same time since you'll have to release them from the hub anyway by unscrewing the retaining nut

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You do realize that the volt